Each season, the British Fashion Council selects sixteen emerging designers for its BFC NEWGEN programme. Those who make the list gain access to something that brands usually spend years working towards: a show of their own at London Fashion Week, along with the attention of buyers and the press. Since the mid-1990s, BFC NEWGEN has served as an accelerator programme for designers including Jonathan Anderson, Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou – names that now help define the face of British fashion.
This strategy – giving designers opportunities at the start of their careers, rather than after the industry has recognised them – is a key part of Moscow Fashion Week’s approach, which begins on 26 September, immediately following the London fashion shows. In other words, Moscow is taking a similar approach to London, but with a greater focus on emerging designers from across the globe – from Latin America to Africa, from the Middle East to Asia, and from Europe to the US. Over the past few seasons, more than 1,000 designers have presented their collections at Moscow Fashion Week, while this season’s programme brings together designers from more than ten countries, including the UK, Spain, Russia, Türkiye, Sri Lanka and China.
Cem Altan, Executive Committee Board Member of the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and a regular guest at Moscow Fashion Week, describes a designer’s journey from a local name to an internationally recognised brand through participation in fashion weeks: «Successful international expansion requires more than creative talent. Designers need access to buyers, media, investors, manufacturers, and international networks. In today’s fashion industry, international recognition is built through continuous engagement with global markets rather than participation in a single event. Fashion weeks such as Moscow Fashion Week can serve as important stepping stones, helping talented designers build relationships, increase visibility, and accelerate their journey toward becoming internationally recognized brands».
Many designers are keen to take advantage of the opportunity for rapid growth and a strong international start offered by Moscow Fashion Week. Among them is London-based brand The Black Crown Label, founded by Nohad Al Samarrie, which will present its new collection at Moscow Fashion Week this season. The label brings together two distinct aesthetic traditions, combining Middle Eastern silhouettes with the structure of the Japanese kimono. This distinctive fusion of cultures could attract attention well beyond the British market, while the Moscow show will give the brand valuable experience of engaging with a new audience.
Russia’s fashion landscape is steadily evolving, with domestic brands shaping an increasingly dynamic local market, a diversity fully reflected in the Moscow Fashion Week lineup. Designer Victoria Andreyanova brings timeless intellectual minimalism and architectural tailoring, while Unke merges soft, feminine silhouettes with crisp, modern lines. 404 Not Found infuses the schedule with an edgy urban aesthetic and bold subcultural attitude, while Vereja reimagines traditional craft through conceptual, folklore-inspired knitwear.
David Prior
David Prior is the editor of Today News, responsible for the overall editorial strategy. He is an NCTJ-qualified journalist with over 20 years’ experience, and is also editor of the award-winning hyperlocal news title Altrincham Today. His LinkedIn profile is here.
